Auction Archive

Kerry Taylor Auctions proudly presents Passion for Fashion, an extraordinary sale of museum-quality couture, avant-garde masterpieces, and historic garments. This season’s catalogue is a celebration of fashion history and artistry.

Leigh Bowery (1961–1994) was a groundbreaking performance artist, fashion designer, and club icon whose provocative and surreal creations challenged conventional ideas of beauty, gender, and identity. Known for his flamboyant costumes, extreme body modifications, and theatrical persona, Bowery became a central figure in London’s underground scene during the 1980s and early 1990s, particularly in relation to Avante Garde nightclub Taboo.

While Leigh did make some fashions to sell, he never did so in great quantity, for, as Boy George commented, “anyone who wore them simply ended up looking like Leigh”. It is, therefore, extraordinary to be offering 7 lots by the avant-garde designer, including 4 eye-catching outfits from his personal wardrobe.

Josephine  Baker (1906–1975)  was an American-born French entertainer, activist, and style icon who became one of the most celebrated performers of the 20th century. Rising to fame in  1920s Paris with her daring dance routines and charismatic stage presence,  Baker broke racial barriers and redefined notions of glamour and freedom.  Beyond her artistic achievements, she was a committed civil rights activist and served as a spy for the French Resistance during World War II.

Her legacy endures as a symbol of resilience, artistry, and social progress. We are therefore delighted to offer 8 ensembles from Baker’s wardrobe, including several dazzling stage-worn costumes, and some of her customised early Jean Dessès haute couture designs.

Alexander  McQueen  designs are a firm favourite here at Kerry Taylor auctions. But there are three  lots that stand out in this sale: A sequined corset gown from the ‘Deliverance’  collection, which appears to fall off the body with tragic elegance – on the runway the model was seen collapsed in the arms of her dancing partner before  helplessly being dragged off stage. A gorgeous degradé fuchsia and purple kimono from the ‘La Dame Bleue’ collection, with exquisite trailing sleeve  panels that recall wings – a central motif of the show. The ensemble is  completed with the rare matching shoes and belt, making it a truly museum-worthy look. And, finally, a dazzling gold sequined dress from the ‘Witches of Salem’ collection, formed with intricate patterns of paillettes that follow and accentuate the lines of the body.

Several of the McQueen pieces on offer are made all the more special as they come from the personal collection of Lee’s muse Annabelle Nielson, including several rare photographs of the designer from her personal archive.

Early Margiela pieces remain extremely difficult to source, as few pieces from the hugely influential formative shows were ever sold. However, in this sale we have several examples, including extraordinary full ensembles from the highly revered Spring-Summer 1990 show, that have come directly from the wardrobe of a runway model who wore them at the time.

There are several showstopping John Galliano ensembles on offer in this sale. The ‘Clam’ dress from Spring-Summer 1988 stands out for its unquestionable beauty and technical prowess, with the delicate pleats and curves of the skirt recalling the age rings found on the inside of seashells.  It made such an impact at the time that 15 years later, Alexander McQueen was inspired to create his own version of it for his shipwreck-themed ‘Irere’  collection in 2003. Galliano himself would revisit the design in Spring-Summer  1995 and alluded to it in his Christian Dior haute couture show, ‘Pin-Up’ Spring-Summer  2007.

Other important pieces from this period include rare dresses and separates from collections such as ‘Fallen Angels’ and ‘The Ludic Game’, as well as important ensembles from ‘The Rose’, complete with their rare-to-find headpieces. The auction also offers an array of sensual designs from the 1990s and 2000s, spanning Galliano’s own label and his tenure at Christian Dior. These bias-cut silhouettes and lavishly embellished gowns remain as striking and wearable today as when they first graced the runway.

This season’s sale boasts an eclectic array of costume jewellery, from iconic runway pieces to rare avant-garde treasures. From Chanel, there are important mid-century designs from Goossens and Gripoix, including a fantastic multicoloured beaded necklace, along with playful designs from the 1980s, such as earrings in the form of cherubs, clothes hangers or even perfume bottles.

One standout is arguably the most legendary accessory of the 1990s: the Chanel Gladiator belt. Immortalised in the image of Linda Evangelista for Chanel’s Nouvelle Rapper show—draped in gold with the belt taking centre stage—it epitomises a fearless era of fashion that transformed subcultural motifs into objets d’art.

Equally provocative is an exceptionally rare set of Westwood/McLaren pendant earrings, dated 1976. These miniature, anatomically inspired forms shocked audiences then, and may still today, perfectly encapsulating the rebellious spirit of the boutique’s infamous theme: SEX.

For those seeking pure elegance, the auction includes a glamorous selection of Madame Grès jewellery, many of which were lent to the Metropolitan Museum of Art for their 1994 retrospective exhibition, and perfectly encapsulate the timeless elegance for which she was known.

The Japanese section features several pivotal early designs by Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons. Characterised by voluminous silhouettes, asymmetric tailoring, and deliberately distressed fabrics, these pieces embody the radical aesthetic that defined Kawakubo’s ground-breaking Paris shows and reshaped global fashion in the 1980s. Beyond that, there are more modern designs from the lauded ‘Body Meets Dress…Dress Meets Body collection’ Spring-Summer 1997, as well as important ensembles from Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake.

With so many rare and important lots on offer it is difficult to choose a favourite. But don’t miss your chance to own a piece of fashion history!

Cosprop Auction: The Sequel features treasures from the archives of the world’s leading costume houses, Cosprop, which celebrates its 60th Anniversary this year, to help support the creatives and filmmakers of tomorrow. Following on from last year’s successful Cosprop sale, we have once again inspected miles of costume rails to bring more treasures to auction on 25 November.

Founded in 1965 by John Bright OBE, OSCAR and BAFTA award-winning costume designer, Cosprop has created iconic costumes for actors on stage and screen, capturing audiences’ imaginations for over 6 decades.

Cosprop: The Sequel features over 73 costumes which have graced the shoulders of iconic screen legends, including Bette Davis, Elizabeth Taylor, Ava Gardner, Julie Christie, Heath Ledger, Dustin Hoffman and Ralph Fiennes to name but a few. Prior to going under the hammer, there is an opportunity to view the costumes’ exquisite detail at a public pre-sale exhibition on display at our saleroom in London from 19 – 25 November. Opening hours during our viewing days are listed on the auction page.

To view the catalogue, please click here

The eighth ‘Kerry Taylor chez Maurice à Paris’ sale presents over 400 avant-garde fashion pieces and accessories, offered across two sessions (10:30 a.m. and 3 p.m.).

The morning session (10:30 a.m.) will feature around 200 lots from a range of private collections, including an outstanding group of garments by Maison Martin Margiela, alongside a fine selection of John Galliano designs for both Christian Dior and his eponymous label. Also included are exquisite pieces from Chanel and other major houses.

The afternoon session (from 3 p.m.) is dedicated entirely to ‘Archivio Penelope’, the celebrated collection of Roberta Valentini, a pioneering figure in Italian fashion.

With her avant-garde boutiques in Italy, Roberta Valentini is internationally recognised as a visionary and trend setter. Over the years, she has assembled 237 rare and beautifully preserved garments — pieces she considered too important to sell at the time, choosing instead to safeguard them as a personal record of fashion history and her own creative philosophy. Born Cesarina, she decided to adopt the name Roberta as an act of self-affirmation that would come to define her entire career. Her boutique ‘Penelope’ became an extension of that identity — an embodiment of her aesthetic and her uncompromising approach to style. Roberta began her journey in fashion in 1969, working in her family’s shoe business. Following her father’s death, she and her sister opened a small shop in Contrada Cavalletto, championing avant-garde fashion for a growing clientele.

A turning point came in 1982 with the arrival of Japanese designers in Paris — a moment that reshaped her vision entirely. Since then, Roberta Valentini and ‘Penelope’ have become synonymous with progressive, boundary-pushing fashion, supporting designers and movements that transformed the global style landscape. Her close relationships with icons such as Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, and the late Vivienne Westwood speak to her influence and foresight. Today, her universe spans three boutiques in Brescia — ‘Penelope’, ‘Boysloft’, and 'Penelope Sposa’ — each reflecting a different facet of her visionary taste. With her striking red hair and magnetic presence, Roberta has become a fashion icon, sought after for autographs and even invited to dine with the British royal family.   It is an honour to offer her collection at auction, and this sale presents a rare opportunity for collectors worldwide. A self-described ‘creator of disruption,’ Roberta Valentini has always championed individuality and personal expression. Her legacy shines through this historic sale — more than 230 lots that encapsulate a lifetime of bold choices, meaningful relationships, and uncompromising style.   « I saw them as they were — projected into the future, yet rooted in Europe. I began with Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, then Martin Margiela, Azzedine Alaïa… I love the pursuit of ideas.» - Roberta Valentini  To view the catalogue, please click here

Download PDF Catalogue

This is a timed (online-only) auction. Lots will begin ending at the stated time above, with each lot closing consecutively in one minute intervals. If bids are received in the final minute, the time will be extended by an additional minute for that lot. This will not affect the end time of the following lots.

Your total bid limit includes losing bids. Therefore, if you exceed your bid limit during the sale and would like it increased, please give the office a call on +44 (0) 2086764600 during the hours of 9am – 5:00pm BST, and we will be more than happy to assist you.

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Live Sale - Thursday, July 10th at 2 PM (CET)

Public Exhibition:

Tuesday, July 8th from 10 AM to 6 PM

Wednesday, July 9th from 10 AM to 6 PM

97, rue de Turenne - 75003 PARIS

Our June auction has something for everyone – from modern luxury to fine and rare antique dress. This sale also includes three very special but very different collections.  The first collection we present is 20 lots from the wardrobe of the late Marianne Faithfull. Renowned for her haunting voice, bold spirit, and enduring influence on music and culture, Marianne Faithfull also left an indelible mark on the world of fashion. Emerging in the 1960s as one of the era’s most captivating performers, she became known for her distinctive style — often dressed in dramatic, monochromatic black ensembles that reflected both elegance and edge.

We are also offering a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to acquire pieces from Zandra Rhodes’ personal archive. The collection comprises 92 lots ranging from her 1969 black felt ‘Circle’ coat, through to designs of the 2000s, including one important dress which was worn by Diana, Princess of Wales. These joyously colourful dresses include iconic designs from Dame Zandra Rhodes’ illustrious career. The sale will benefit the Zandra Rhodes Foundation: “I formed the Zandra Rhodes Foundation to carefully catalogue the momentous dresses I have designed over the last 60 years — each one hand-printed and handmade in my London studio. Now, for the first time, I am opening up my archive and offering a rare chance to own pieces from my life's work. With the expert guidance of Kerry Taylor, a curated selection of my most treasured, statement garments will find new homes around the world. Kerry’s exceptional eye has found chiffon kaftans from my very first collection, beaded evening gowns worn by Hollywood icons and royalty, experimental coats, pleated satin jackets and wonderful Boho pieces made in my renaissance period in the early 2000s.” - Dame Zandra Rhodes.

The third collection featured in this auction is that of the late Anne-Marie Sherwood, a lifelong collector of historic dress. Part I of her collection is included in this sale comprising 26 lots dating from the 18th to the early 20th centuries. Included are sumptuous Spitalfields and French brocades,18th-century stays, and mid-19th century printed cottons.

In addition to the three collections that we’re featuring in this auction, we begin the sale with a strong selection of Lagerfeld-era Chanel, particularly from the Métiers d'Art collections, which showcase the craftsmanship and skills of the artisans employed by Chanel. Modern fashion is well-represented, with rare examples by Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, and John Paul Gaultier all making appearances in the catalogue. Icons of twentieth-century haute couture also have their place in the sale, from Schiaparelli haute couture to stunning silhouettes by Christian Dior. 2025 marks the 200^th anniversary of Charles Frederick Worth’s birth, and we are pleased to present seven lots from the fashion house, dating from circa 1885 to 1908. Our earliest and perhaps most rare item in the sale is the gentleman’s ruffler worn by Sir Edwin Rich in the 1620s. Additionally, we have some further exceptional examples of 18^th century dress, including a wonderful historicist oxblood silk gown dating from the 1780s, a rare 1790s hat, and a fabulous pair of silk damask high-heels from the early 18^th century.

This is arguably the finest private collection of Napoleonic and Regency period dress in the world. It stands out not only for the range of clothes (1790s to 1820s) but also for the individual beauty of the garments and the remarkably good overall condition.  Cristina Barreto and Martin Lancaster have painstakingly put together this collection over the last two decades, their interest sparked by the discovery of fashion plates from ‘Costume Parisien’ and later the same day finding garments of the same period in a flea market.  

‘Our collection started because we wanted to fully understand the clothes that people wore in the Napoleonic and Regency period. Each dress tells a story about the owner, the activity and the time of day it was used. The collection grew larger as we tried to incorporate items that represented the development of cut and methods of construction during the period from 1795 to 1820’,

This is the first auction dedicated to the clothing of this era, ranging from adapted transitional post French revolutionary dress of the 1790s to the French first empire (1805-1815) and the period in England when Prince George ruled as Regent (1811-1820). The majority of these exceptional garments have been exhibited across Europe and the USA in the past, 

Cristina Barreto and Martin Lancaster, whilst sad to see their collection dispersed, state: ‘Our passion for the clothing and fashions of this fascinating period of history is undiminished, but we hope that the new caretakers of these historic artefacts, be they people with a passion, collectors or institutions, will take care of them and love them as much as we did’.

For more information please click here