Lot 108 : A fine and rare Gabrielle Chanel embroidered evening coat, 1918-20.
A fine and rare Gabrielle Chanel embroidered evening coat, 1918-20. yellow on black woven Gabrielle Chanel label, the black satin ground embroidered in golden beige and ivory silk mouliné threads with Turkmen-inspired repeats, the sleeves seemingly emerge from the embroidered back panel with side pleats creating curved upper raised waistline, black fur collar, cuffs and edgings, lined in golden-beige satin, fastened at neck and waist by cord loops and fur-covered, chest approx 102cm, 40in Provenance: purchased as part of a job-lot at an estate auction in St Paul Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA. It was discovered at the bottom of a box filled with miscellaneous Victorian clothing. Chanel liked to incorporate traditional ethnic or folkloric patterns in her clothing, culminating in her 1922 'Russian' collection, for which she commissioned embroideries from Grand Duchess Pavlovna's embroidery company Kitmir, whom she is believed to have first used in the Autumn of 1921. This coat is entirely hand-embroidered and is heavily influenced by ethnic Turkmen patterns. A sketch of this exact model is held by the Museum of FIT archive, in a folder of A.Beller and Co licenced models 1918-20.
Estimate:£8000 - £12000
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