Lot 105 : A rare and early Jeanne Lanvin couture bridesmaid's dress, July 1912.
A rare and early Jeanne Lanvin couture bridesmaid's dress, July 1912. with narrow woven yellow and ivory satin label and pencilled name 'Mlle Maurice', of white organdie with fine drawn threadwork borders and blue organdie edges, the raised waistline and curved side opening outlined with organdie roses in delicate shades of pink, with shaped, ruched organdie leaves and wired blue ribbon bows, bust approx 81cm, 32in This dress was one of a group of ten bridesmaid's dresses worn by little girls and young women, all dressed in white with rosebud garlands and touches of blue for good luck. The bridal party was photographed in 'Les Modes', July 1912, the image also being reproduced in 'Lanvin' by Dean L.Merceron, p114, where he writes: 'As seen in the July 1912 issue of Les Modes, a marriage for the house of Lanvin as the bride married into the Lanvin family and two of the Lanvin nieces, Camille and Marianne, stand as attendants.' Jeanne Lanvin first introduced bridal gowns into her collections in 1911. The styles tended to follow the prevailing silhouettes of the period, which in 1912 was the chemise-line with raised waistline and loose, gently-gathered skirts usually outlined and accented with pretty floral garlands, beadwork or metallic ribbons. The June issue of 'Les Modes' features an afternoon dress with striking similarities to this bridesmaid's dress and the September issue of 'Les Modes' has on its cover a Lanvin evening gown which is also similar to this example, suggesting the look was a popular best-seller of the moment. This gown is a rare survivor of the early, romantic oeuvre that established Jeanne Lanvin 's reputation as a couturier at the beginning of her career and is also interesting because of its link the Lanvin family itself.