antique Lot 199

Passion for Fashion

17th June 2019

We have such treats in store for you all – whatever your period or area of interest.

Our earliest piece, lot 25, is an embroidered linen gentleman’s undress hat, circa 1600, which was worn by a wealthy gentleman to relax in at home. Examples of this period and style only occasionally come onto the market and are usually worked in polychrome silks or blackwork. Ours, worked in vibrant green and red silks, is most unusual. Its design includes carnations and thistle motifs, within plaited gilt braided strapwork which form hearts. Possibly it was a love token or marriage gift?

Of course, we have lots of wonderful handbags by Hermès, Gucci and Chanel, but our other headline accessory has to be lot 261 – an incredibly rare pair of Alexander McQueen ‘Armadillo’ boots, S/S 2010. It has long been a dream of mine to find a pair. Formed from turquoise ray skin and leather with precipitous 17cm, 6 ¾ in heels, they must have been a nightmare to walk in. Many museums and collectors have the clothes from this collection, but very few have the boots to complete the look. Hardly any pairs were made; indeed, we believe lot 261 to have been made for the show. This is a rare chance to acquire a pair of contemporaneous boots – an opportunity which may not arise again.

From the 18th century we have an exquisite 1750s brocaded gold silk hunt waistcoat (lot 33), designed to magnificently flare out over the more sober side-saddle habit, as well as robes à la Française and à l’Anglaise in rich silks and Indienne cotton (lots 29, 34, 31). However, the jewel in our 18th century crown is indubitably, the rare and beautiful 'grand habit de cour' bodice, French, 1765-75. Of pink satin (it seems girls have always loved pink), smothered in silver bobbin lace, it would have been worn by a young noblewoman at the French court. Designed to force the shoulders back and the chest forwards, this rigid bodice style was popularised during the reign of the Sun King - Louis XIV (1638-1715), who liked the women of his court to display as much décolleté as possible, and which continued until the Revolution in France. With its tiny 21inch waist and impossibly narrow back, it must have been extremely uncomfortable to wear, albeit beautiful.

Also vying for the smallest waist size in this sale is the stunningly severe black Dior ensemble from the 'Profile Line' collection, A/W 1952, coming in at 24inches. However, the voluminous box pleats of the skirt make it appear even smaller. Vogue advised its readers that the collection was ‘Black, black, black’. The inky blackness in silk and cashmere serving to emphasise a clean, severe but sensuous silhouette, devoid of fripperies (lot 83).

No KTA sale would be complete without its Royal section and we are pleased to present three rare daywear ensembles worn by Diana, the late Princess of Wales, and much photographed on official engagements between 1984 and 88 (lots 20-22). Made by some of her favourite designers - Elizabeth Emanuel, Catherine Walker and Jasper Conran, she transformed her look each time she wore them by a clever change of accessories.

Karl Lagerfeld dreamed of dressing Diana. There are two intriguing sketches by him in 1984 showing his ideas for the Princess which were more figure-hugging. In his inimitable manner he stated in a ‘Woman’s Own’ interview, ‘I would like to see her in tighter clothes, to look more aggressive. But, sadly, she must wear British clothes!' (lots 18 and 19).

We have a matching pair of floral Liberty-print silk dresses, by Smith & Co, with matching knickers, worn by young Princesses Elizabeth and Margaret in 1935. These are some of the most photographed of their childhood clothes. A charming image of 1935 shows the girls in the dresses, watching a pantomime at the Lyceum theatre, with their parents (then Duke & Duchess of Kent) – little Margaret seemingly transfixed by the stage (lot 16).

Auction: Monday June 17th at 2pm

Venue: 249-253 Long Lane, Bermondsey, London, SE1 4PR

Viewing:
Friday June 14th, 9-5pm
Sunday June 16th, 11-4pm
Monday June 17th, morning viewing by appointment only

Purchasers will be charged a buyer’s premium which for lots up to £50,000, is 25% of the hammer price. For lots selling for above £50,000, the buyer’s premium is 20% of the hammer price. The premium is subject to VAT at the prevailing rate.

Auction: Monday June 17th at 2pm

Venue: 249-253 Long Lane, Bermondsey, London, SE1 4PR

Viewing:
Friday June 14th, 9-5pm
Sunday June 16th, 11-4pm
Monday June 17th, morning viewing by appointment only

Purchasers will be charged a buyer’s premium which for lots up to £50,000, is 25% of the hammer price. For lots selling for above £50,000, the buyer’s premium is 20% of the hammer price. The premium is subject to VAT at the prevailing rate.

If you have never bid with us before we require you to register. This can be done in person during the exhibition or via email in advance of the auction. We require photographic proof of I.D such as a driver’s license or passport and proof of address. Please clearly supply your full name, address, telephone number and email details. We may also request credit card information. This information is held by us in strictest confidence under GDPR.

Bidding in person: Just turn up on the day of the sale – if you have already registered you will be handed a numbered paddle, which you show to the auctioneer once you have made a successful purchase. If you are a new bidder we will require you to register with us first.

Commission bidding: Your written maximum bid is given to the auctioneer to operate on your behalf. We undertake to purchase the lot(s) on your behalf as cheaply as possible taking into account the reserve and other bids received. Bids can be left with us directly – online, by fax or by email. You can also download a bid slip here. You can leave bids via the website but please note if you are a new bidder we will contact you for further ID, and your bids will not be registered until this information is supplied. 

Telephone bidding: There are a limited number of lines so we advise that you request telephone bids well in advance of the auction and not on the day of the sale when it may not be possible to assist. We require a list of your requested lot numbers and primary and back-up phone numbers if possible. Landlines are preferable to mobiles, which are not as reliable. We also recommend you leave a cover bid in-case we cannot reach you for whatever reason.

Live Internet bidding. You are able to bid in real-time during the auction via Invaluable. Bidders wishing to bid online need to register via the on-line bidding platform and complete their registration process for us to approve. Please note there is an additional 3% buyer’s premium for online bidding via Invaluable.

Payment is due immediately, in pounds sterling. We do not accept other currencies. We accept payment by debit or credit cards (there is a maximum of £1000 for payments on credit cards), cash (up to £8000 only), or bank transfer (fees apply to sending bank wires depending on the country of origin).

We send out invoices the day after the auction and include shipping quotes where necessary.

On receipt of cleared funds, lots can be collected from our saleroom. They are available for collection during our office hours – Monday to Friday 9.30-5pm. We provide shipping quotes via our appointed shippers, Godspeed Couriers. If you would like to contact them prior to the auction with any questions, please email Gary Martin, info@godspeedcouriers.co.uk. They provide competitive worldwide quotations for packing and shipping of purchases and are experienced in handling rare costume and textiles.

Download Catalogue

128

A Zandra Rhodes 'Field of Lilies' and 'Knitted Circle' printed chiffon dress, circa 1974

129

A fine and rare Ossie Clark snakeskin maxi coat, 1971

129A

An Ossie Clark 'Bridget' dress, circa 1973

130

A Mr Freedom black and red velvet baseball suit, designed by Diana Crawshaw, 1971

131

An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell for Radley moss crêpe dress, mid 1970s

132

An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell floral printed marocain bias-cut dress, 1971

133

An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell 'Lily Marlene' printed rose-pink velvet coat, circa 1970

134

An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell 'Candy Flower' printed velvet coat, circa 1970

135

The Ritva Man' David Hockney acrylic sweater, circa 1970

136

A Bill Gibb silver grey embroidered Quiana jersey 'Bee' gown, Autumn-Winter, 1973-4

137

An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell 'Lazy Susan' printed marocain dress, early 1970s

138

An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell 'Step by Step' print wool ensemble, circa 1970

139

A Christian Dior by Marc Bohan couture day suit, Autumn-Winter, 1961-2

140

A Chanel couture bright red tweed suit, 1974

141

A Chanel couture tartan tweed suit, 1971

142

A Loris Azzaro evening gown, late 1970s-early 80s

143

A Christian Dior couture by Marc Bohan beaded cocktail dress, Autumn Winter 1975-6

144

A fine Yves Saint Laurent couture oyster satin 'goddess' gown, circa 1973

145

A Marc Bohan for Dior couture white organza gown, 1971

146

An Oscar de la Renta fully sequined black rayon jumpsuit, circa 1970

147

A rare Thierry Mugler gold leather helmet and belt, 1979

148

A rare pair of Westwood/McLaren 'SEX' stilettos, circa 1976

149

Westwood/McLaren madras-striped cotton shirt and matching sash, 'Pirate' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1981-82

150

A Vivienne Westwood man's armour waistcoat/jacket, 'Time Machine' collection, Autumn-Winter 1988-89

151

A Vivienne Westwood navy felt 'John Bull' hat, 'Harris Tweed' collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88

152

A Stephen Sprouse/Andy Warhol fluorescent camouflage print cotton suit, 1987

153

An important John Galliano 'Les Incroyables' coat, Saint Martin's degree show collection, July 1984

154

Three rare John Galliano cotton jersey Placket tops, 'Fallen Angels' collection, Spring-Summer, 1986

155

A John Galliano knitted silk 'farmer's smock' dress, 'Fallen Angels' collection, Spring-Summer, 1986

156

A fine and rare John Galliano 'Pouch' dress, 'Forgotten Innocents' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1986-87

157

A rare John Galliano ivory 'blanket' jacket, 'Forgotten Innocents' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1986-87

158

A John Galliano pale pink silk 'Circle' shirt, Spring-Summer, 1987