The Wardrobe of the Late Shirley Watts

Date: 29th Oct, 2024 9:00 GMT+1/BST

Lots: 152

Shirley and Charlie Watts first met as students at the Royal College of Art in 1964 - before the Rolling Stones shot to stardom. Shirley was an accomplished sculptress and produced numerous artworks throughout her lifetime usually inspired by the animals she loved - dogs and horses. Shirley spent most of her time on their country estate in Devon where she established a renowned Arabian stud. Perhaps unsurprisingly she collected equestrian themed fashion items, for example an early 19th century purse beaded with an Arab stallion and assorted handbags from the 1950s onwards woven or embroidered with horses.

Throughout her life Shirley showed a keen interest in fashion. She memorably turned up to Brian Jones funeral in 1969 dressed head to toe in white – hat, mini dress, tights, platform shoes. Her marriage to Charlie was initially kept a secret (even from the other band members) as the management felt it would be detrimental to the group press-wise. In the late 1960s and early 70s Shirley frequented the Biba store and other cool high street shops in both London and Paris, also wearing Emanuel Khan and Cacharel.

She kept very few garments from her younger days – but one piece – a pretty Cacharel floral printed dress - she was photographed wearing in 1971 in San Tropez, accompanied by Charlie and Ringo and Maureen Starr. Although Charlie was renowned for his sartorial style (usually immaculately turned out in Savile Row elegance)Shirley had a more relaxed, eclectic, bohemian approach to fashion. She was very independently minded and was never guided in her fashion choices by her husband.

Designer Basia Zarzycka knew Shirley Watts from the 1980s when she opened her first shop on the King’s Rd. She recalls, ‘Shirley was a lovely client and over the years we became friends. She could spend hours at a time inside my shop – carefully examining the hats, shoes, ribbons, flowers, and buttons. She had an incredible eye for detail and really enjoyed choosing the fabrics and trimmings . Amongst the many creations I made for Shirley are the two-18thcentury inspired fancy dress outfits she wore for Sir Mick Jagger’s 50th birthday party (where she also made costumes for Charlie and daughter Seraphina) and Sir Elton John’s 50th birthday party in the 1990s. Shirley loved the historically-influenced construction of the clothes. For the silver ensemble I remember she specified she wanted something very feminine, very boudoir which I think we achieved.’’

Shirley also collected a small group of antique garments ranging from bodices made from early 18th century silk brocades, an 1880s satin bridal gown and antique lingerie. These were acquired not to wear but to study and admire in terms of fabrics and fine detailing. Shirley loved hats. She owned dozens of them; a hat and sunglasses were something of a signature look for her. We include examples by Prada, Chanel and others, some of which she was photographed wearing when she attended Royal Ascot with Charlie. Shirley chose to wear a particularly pretty straw hat by Basia Zarzycka, covered in silk blossom to the christening of Georgia May Jagger in 1992.

Shirley and Charlie opted to live a quiet life in the countryside where she could focus on on her beloved Arabian horses. However, she still found time to nip to London or Paris for shopping trips to her favourite stores - Chanel, Loewe, Lanvin, Etro, Ralph Lauren, Celine, Loro Piana, Bottega Veneta, Prada, Balenciaga. Her wardrobe latterly could be best described as understated luxury. Comfort and practicality were important. One stand out piece is an exquisite Loewe cocktail dress designed by Narciso Rodriguez, A/W 1999-2000. The seemingly simple slip-style nude tulled dress is entirely entirely covered in a shimmer of approximately 10,000 carats of rough-cut drilled real peridot beads. It is the perfect example of understated elegance.

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