The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1) & Passion for Fashion
Auction: June 20th and 21st
I’m honoured to have been entrusted with the sale of friend, collector, dealer, fashion hunter, gatherer - Mr Steven Philip’s legendary archive part 1 (day1). This is the perfect opportunity to acquire museum quality Westwood from Punk Sex-Originals, 1975, swashbuckling Pirates, 1981, and every fabulous design twist and turn of Viv’s through to romantic ball gowns and dangerously vertiginous Super Elevated Platforms of the ‘90s and 2000s. The Galliano chapter is also strong and includes a St Martin’s degree show ‘Incroyable’ waistcoat with matching original student sketch as well as rare and important early Galliano showpieces. For the finale to his section we present Lady Gaga’s ‘Red Bleeding’ rubber fetish look worn in her 911 video.
Day 2 of our fashion extravaganza continues with luxury and designer-wear by Chanel and Hermès before romping through fashion from the 18th century onwards decade by decade. Haute couture highlights include an incredibly rare Kitmir embroidered tunic for Gabrielle Chanel from 1922 (lightening does strike twice), one of her eponymous LBDs from 1924, a Schiaparelli ‘Hall of Mirrors’ jacket from 1938 as well as fabulous Dior, Balmain and Balenciaga evening wear. The Duchess of Windsor’s fashion choices are revealed by fashion sketches from the Houses of Dior, Grès and Saint Laurent complete with her rather blunt handwritten comments. (Lots 201-203).
A highlight of our Westwood offerings on day two is the unique pair of green mock croc Super Elevated Gillies personally autographed by Dame Vivienne herself.
Issey Miyake leads our Avant-Garde and Japanese section with a fine Issey Miyake 'Plastic Body' breastplate, Autumn-Winter 1980-81 as immortalized by Grace Jones.
Hilde Smith’s BodyMap Archive includes first print tests, large fabric samples, original designs, associated press clippings and a few garments. Hilde has provided us with the individual pattern names and also footnotes describing her design process. Her prints were a magical, integral part of the early BodyMap collections which she not only designed (pre computer graphics) but also on occasion modelled as her press clippings reveal.
Simon Costin’s creations for Lee Alexander McQueen are historically important and includes jewellery made for Lee’s degree show as well as one-off showpieces from ‘Dante’ and’ The Birds’. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity for museums and collectors alike to acquire them.
Just to prove that fashion is timeless we end our sale with a fine and rare Imperial summer dragon robe, longpao, Chinese, late 19th century, possibly owned by Empress Dowager Cixi.
We look forward to hearing from you and seeing you in the saleroom.
Day One: The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1), lots 1-147, Tuesday 20th June, begins at 14:00 BST.
Day Two: Various Owners, luxury & designer wear, antique dress, fine haute couture, cutting edge fashion of the 20th-21st century, the Hilde Smith and Simon Costin Archives and an important Imperial robe, Wednesday 21st June, morning session (lots 148 - 365) begins at 10:00 BST. Afernoon session (lots 366 - 557) begins at 14:00 BST.
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Lot 385 - A John Galliano green linen hat, 'Charles James' collection, Spring-Summer 1989
Sold for £2,400
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 386 - A John Galliano brown gabardine jacket, 'Charles James' collection, Spring-Summer 1989
Sold for £800
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 387 - A John Galliano blue gabardine tunic, 'Nancy Cunard' collection, Autumn-Winter 1989-90
Sold for £3,200
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 389 - BodyMap accessories, 'Olive Oil Meets Querelle' collection, Spring-Summer 1984
Sold for £460
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 394 - A BodyMap 'Tarot' print coat/dress, 'Half World' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1985-86
Sold for £300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 395 - A BodyMap 'Tarot' print coat/dress, 'Half World' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1985-86
Sold for £3,200
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 396 - A BodyMap 'Seven Demons' print shirt, 'Half World' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1985-86
Sold for £240
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 400 - A man's Jean Paul Gaultier grey wool suit, late 1980s
Sold for £380
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 401 - A Jean Paul Gaultier quilted gold satin coat, Autumn-Winter 1985
Sold for £750
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 403 - A Thierry Mugler ‘Les Milteuses’ Communist-style Dress, Autumn Winter 1986-87
Sold for £360
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 404 - An Azzedine Alaïa brown lambskin leather `zipper' dress, Spring-Summer 1986
Sold for £1,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 407 - A Givenchy couture bow-embroidered evening dress, 1980s
Sold for £750
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 408 - A rare Chloé by Karl Lagerfeld 'scissors' skirt, Spring-Summer 1984
Sold for £5,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 409 - An Yves Saint Laurent couture black lace dress, Autumn-Winter 1985-86
Sold for £1,500
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 410 - A Geoffrey Beene black lace jacket, 1987
Sold for £320
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 412 - A Chloé by Karl Lagerfeld black chiffon dress, Autumn-Winter 1980-81
Sold for £380
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 413 - A Givenchy couture black chiffon dress, 1980s
Sold for £600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 414 - A Zandra Rhodes pleated satin jacket, 'African' collection, Spring-Summer 1981
Sold for £1,400
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 418 - A Gianni Versace black embellished ensemble, Atelier at the Ritz', Spring-Summer 1990
Sold for £1,200
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 419 - A Gianni Versace 'Marilyn Monroe' print body, 'Pop' collection, Spring-Summer 1991
Sold for £550
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 422 - A Versace couture grey chiffon evening gown, 'Medieval' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1998-99
Sold for £1,700
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 423 - A Paco Rabanne silvered metal bodice, probably 1990s
Sold for £1,100
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 424 - A Thierry Mugler printed silk suit, 1990s
Sold for £200
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 425 - A Thierry Mugler leopard-print silk dress, Spring-Summer 1996
Sold for £400
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 428 - A Jean Paul Gaultier brass and velvet choker, 1990s
Sold for £380
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 429 - A Jean Paul Gaultier ensemble, 'Chic Rabbi' collection, autumn-winter 1993-94
Sold for £15,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 431 - A Jean-Paul Gaultier stretch-jersey dress, Spring-Summer, 1996
Sold for £950
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 432 - A Christian Dior by John Galliano suit, pre-collection A/W1998-99
Sold for £550
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
