The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1) & Passion for Fashion
Auction: June 20th and 21st
I’m honoured to have been entrusted with the sale of friend, collector, dealer, fashion hunter, gatherer - Mr Steven Philip’s legendary archive part 1 (day1). This is the perfect opportunity to acquire museum quality Westwood from Punk Sex-Originals, 1975, swashbuckling Pirates, 1981, and every fabulous design twist and turn of Viv’s through to romantic ball gowns and dangerously vertiginous Super Elevated Platforms of the ‘90s and 2000s. The Galliano chapter is also strong and includes a St Martin’s degree show ‘Incroyable’ waistcoat with matching original student sketch as well as rare and important early Galliano showpieces. For the finale to his section we present Lady Gaga’s ‘Red Bleeding’ rubber fetish look worn in her 911 video.
Day 2 of our fashion extravaganza continues with luxury and designer-wear by Chanel and Hermès before romping through fashion from the 18th century onwards decade by decade. Haute couture highlights include an incredibly rare Kitmir embroidered tunic for Gabrielle Chanel from 1922 (lightening does strike twice), one of her eponymous LBDs from 1924, a Schiaparelli ‘Hall of Mirrors’ jacket from 1938 as well as fabulous Dior, Balmain and Balenciaga evening wear. The Duchess of Windsor’s fashion choices are revealed by fashion sketches from the Houses of Dior, Grès and Saint Laurent complete with her rather blunt handwritten comments. (Lots 201-203).
A highlight of our Westwood offerings on day two is the unique pair of green mock croc Super Elevated Gillies personally autographed by Dame Vivienne herself.
Issey Miyake leads our Avant-Garde and Japanese section with a fine Issey Miyake 'Plastic Body' breastplate, Autumn-Winter 1980-81 as immortalized by Grace Jones.
Hilde Smith’s BodyMap Archive includes first print tests, large fabric samples, original designs, associated press clippings and a few garments. Hilde has provided us with the individual pattern names and also footnotes describing her design process. Her prints were a magical, integral part of the early BodyMap collections which she not only designed (pre computer graphics) but also on occasion modelled as her press clippings reveal.
Simon Costin’s creations for Lee Alexander McQueen are historically important and includes jewellery made for Lee’s degree show as well as one-off showpieces from ‘Dante’ and’ The Birds’. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity for museums and collectors alike to acquire them.
Just to prove that fashion is timeless we end our sale with a fine and rare Imperial summer dragon robe, longpao, Chinese, late 19th century, possibly owned by Empress Dowager Cixi.
We look forward to hearing from you and seeing you in the saleroom.
Day One: The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1), lots 1-147, Tuesday 20th June, begins at 14:00 BST.
Day Two: Various Owners, luxury & designer wear, antique dress, fine haute couture, cutting edge fashion of the 20th-21st century, the Hilde Smith and Simon Costin Archives and an important Imperial robe, Wednesday 21st June, morning session (lots 148 - 365) begins at 10:00 BST. Afernoon session (lots 366 - 557) begins at 14:00 BST.
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Lot 192 - A Valentino sand-coloured flecked wool suit, probably A/W 2000
Sold for £200
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 193 - A Louis Vuitton monogrammed leather Papillon bag, 2004
Sold for £220
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 194 - A Cartier brown suede clutch with 9K gold clasp, 1930s
Sold for £150
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 195 - A Christian Dior faux pearl and rhinestone demi-parure, 1980s-90s
Sold for £440
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 196 - A Miriam Haskell faux-pearl and gilt metal demi-parure, 1950s
Sold for £380
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 197 - A magnificent brooch, possibly by Christian Dior, 1950s or 60s
Sold for £600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 198 - A Giorgio Armani statement necklace, 2000s
Sold for £250
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 199 - Two Giorgio Armani statement necklaces, 2000s
Sold for £320
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 208 - A Turnbull & Asser single-breasted blazer, identical to one worn by Princess Diana, 1988
Sold for £6,500
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 209 - A Royal state livery for a musician, for the reign of King George V, 1910-1936
Sold for £800
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 210 - A British Royal Household Footman’s livery for the reign of King Edward VII, circa 1902
Sold for £1,500
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 211 - A gentleman's scarlet hunt coat, 1840s-50s
Sold for £1,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 212 - A rare woven muslin round gown, circa 1795
Sold for £20,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 213 - A gentleman's quilted linen waistcoat, 1730s
Sold for £1,400
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 214 - An embroidered wallet for Edward Pakenham, Moroccan, 1761
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 215 - A Charles Frederick Worth visite, circa 1885
Sold for £2,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 219 - A beaded black muslin flapper dress, circa 1925
Sold for £500
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 220 - A beaded black chiffon flapper dress, circa 1925
Sold for £200
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 221 - A sequined tulle flapper dress, circa 1925
Sold for £420
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 222 - A beaded black chiffon flapper dress, circa 1924
Sold for £360
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 223 - An ombré sequined and beaded pink chiffon flapper dress, circa 1925
Sold for £420
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 224 - A black beaded muslin flapper dress, circa 1925
Sold for £700
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 225 - A finely embroidered ivory silk shawl, Cantonese for the European market, 1920s
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 226 - A finely embroidered ivory silk crêpe shawl, Cantonese for the European market, 1910s-20s
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 227 - Two floral lamé shawls, French, circa 1925
Sold for £250
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 228 - Three lamé shawls, French, circa 1925
Sold for £550
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 229 - Three floral lamé shawls, French, circa 1925
Sold for £550
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 230 - Two floral devoré velvet and lamé shawls, French, circa 1925
Sold for £500
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 231 - A floral chiffon and lamé evening stole and muff/purse, French, circa 1925
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 232 - A Liberty evening shawl, circa 1925
Sold for £1,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 233 - A rare and important Chanel couture tunic, embroidered by Kitmir, 1922
Sold for £70,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 234 - A Reville Ltd pink lamé gown worn by Lady Ledgard, 1925
Sold for £1,500
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 235 - A Gabrielle Chanel couture 'little black dress', 1924
Sold for £21,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 236 - A Liberty & Co reversible satin opera cape, 1920s
Sold for £750
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 237 - Nine issues of Gazette du Bon Ton, 'Art-Modes & Frivolités', 1921
Sold for £700
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
