The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1) & Passion for Fashion
Auction: June 20th and 21st
I’m honoured to have been entrusted with the sale of friend, collector, dealer, fashion hunter, gatherer - Mr Steven Philip’s legendary archive part 1 (day1). This is the perfect opportunity to acquire museum quality Westwood from Punk Sex-Originals, 1975, swashbuckling Pirates, 1981, and every fabulous design twist and turn of Viv’s through to romantic ball gowns and dangerously vertiginous Super Elevated Platforms of the ‘90s and 2000s. The Galliano chapter is also strong and includes a St Martin’s degree show ‘Incroyable’ waistcoat with matching original student sketch as well as rare and important early Galliano showpieces. For the finale to his section we present Lady Gaga’s ‘Red Bleeding’ rubber fetish look worn in her 911 video.
Day 2 of our fashion extravaganza continues with luxury and designer-wear by Chanel and Hermès before romping through fashion from the 18th century onwards decade by decade. Haute couture highlights include an incredibly rare Kitmir embroidered tunic for Gabrielle Chanel from 1922 (lightening does strike twice), one of her eponymous LBDs from 1924, a Schiaparelli ‘Hall of Mirrors’ jacket from 1938 as well as fabulous Dior, Balmain and Balenciaga evening wear. The Duchess of Windsor’s fashion choices are revealed by fashion sketches from the Houses of Dior, Grès and Saint Laurent complete with her rather blunt handwritten comments. (Lots 201-203).
A highlight of our Westwood offerings on day two is the unique pair of green mock croc Super Elevated Gillies personally autographed by Dame Vivienne herself.
Issey Miyake leads our Avant-Garde and Japanese section with a fine Issey Miyake 'Plastic Body' breastplate, Autumn-Winter 1980-81 as immortalized by Grace Jones.
Hilde Smith’s BodyMap Archive includes first print tests, large fabric samples, original designs, associated press clippings and a few garments. Hilde has provided us with the individual pattern names and also footnotes describing her design process. Her prints were a magical, integral part of the early BodyMap collections which she not only designed (pre computer graphics) but also on occasion modelled as her press clippings reveal.
Simon Costin’s creations for Lee Alexander McQueen are historically important and includes jewellery made for Lee’s degree show as well as one-off showpieces from ‘Dante’ and’ The Birds’. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity for museums and collectors alike to acquire them.
Just to prove that fashion is timeless we end our sale with a fine and rare Imperial summer dragon robe, longpao, Chinese, late 19th century, possibly owned by Empress Dowager Cixi.
We look forward to hearing from you and seeing you in the saleroom.
Day One: The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1), lots 1-147, Tuesday 20th June, begins at 14:00 BST.
Day Two: Various Owners, luxury & designer wear, antique dress, fine haute couture, cutting edge fashion of the 20th-21st century, the Hilde Smith and Simon Costin Archives and an important Imperial robe, Wednesday 21st June, morning session (lots 148 - 365) begins at 10:00 BST. Afernoon session (lots 366 - 557) begins at 14:00 BST.
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Lot 290 - A rare Courrèges white knitted wool catsuit, 1969
Sold for £825
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 294 - A Pierre Cardin couture orange crêpe evening gown, 1968-70
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 295 - A Pierre Cardin black wool tabard, circa 1969
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 296 - A Pierre Cardin grey wool jersey and white vinyl mini dress, circa 1969
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 297 - A Pierre Cardin wool crêpe ensemble, circa 1969
Sold for £2,080
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 298 - A Pierre Cardin black wool crêpe maxi-skirt, circa 1970
Sold for £338
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 299 - A pair of Christian Dior blue satin shoes, circa 1960
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 300 - A Christian Dior by Marc Bohan couture blue bouclé suit, Autumn-Winter 1962
Sold for £624
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 302 - A Christian Dior gilt fantasy-tweed cocktail suit, 1963
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 303 - A Christian Dior by Marc Bohan couture black satin suit, Autumn-Winter 1965-66
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 304 - A Christian Dior woven cellophane-straw hat, early 1960s
Sold for £1,950
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 305 - A Christian Dior Diorling black velvet hat, late 1960s
Sold for £130
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 306 - Christian Dior by Marc Bohan couture fashion sketches, Autumn-Winter 1968-69
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 307 - Christian Dior by Marc Bohan couture fashion sketches, Autumn-Winter 1968-69
Sold for £1,820
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 308 - Christian Dior by Marc Bohan couture fashion sketches, Autumn-Winter 1968-69
Sold for £1,820
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 309 - A Christian Dior by Marc Bohan off-white slubbed-gazar evening gown, early 1970s
Sold for £1,235
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 310 - A Madame Grès couture tricolour crêpe dress, late 1970s
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 311 - A rare Pierre Bory of Paris vinyl puzzle-piece 'K' dress, circa 1970
Sold for £3,640
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 313 - A Radley/Celia Birtwell printed rayon-satin blouse, 1970s
Sold for £572
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 314 - A Biba bow-print satin dress, mid-1970s
Sold for £286
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 315 - A Zandra Rhodes ivory chiffon gown, mid-1970s
Sold for £364
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 316 - An Ossie Clark for Radley black moss crêpe 'Cuddly' dress, early 1970s
Sold for £546
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 317 - A Thea Porter black and white floral woven cotton dress, 1971-72
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 318 - A Thea Porter green muslin mini-dress with butterfly print by Shelia Hudson, 1971
Sold for £3,120
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 319 - An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell for Radley floral printed chiffon dress, 1970s
Sold for £624
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 320 - An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell for Radley printed viscose smock-dress, 1970s
Sold for £468
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 321 - Lauren Bacall's Halston silk pierrot style evening ensemble, 1970s
Sold for £4,420
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 322 - Two Zandra Rhodes printed chiffon tunics/dresses, 1970s
Sold for £494
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 323 - A fine bespoke Catherine Buckley medieval-inspired gown, 1974
Sold for £4,680
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 324 - A Thea Porter black and white floral printed chiffon dress, 1970s
Sold for £468
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 325 - A Thea Porter couture black chiffon 'gypsy' style dress, 1970s
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 326 - An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell 'Black-eyed Susan' printed marocain dress, circa 1970
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 327 - An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell for Quorum black jersey and printed chiffon ensemble, 1977
Sold for £2,210
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 328 - An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell for Radley printed chiffon dress, 1970s
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 329 - A Thea Porter printed satin and chiffon abaya/kaftan, 1970s
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 330 - An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell for Radley printed cotton-wool dress, 1970s
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 331 - An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell marocain dress, 1971
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 332 - An Ossie Clark, pink printed velvet maxi suit, 1970
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 333 - An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell printed ivory wool dress, circa 1970
Sold for £2,340
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 334 - An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell printed chiffon blouse, 1970s
Sold for £9,100
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 335 - An Ossie Clark printed chiffon evening gown, 1970s
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 336 - A Bill Gibb brown leather ensemble, Autumn-Winter, 1972-73
Sold for £3,120
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 337 - A Thea Porter marbled-print chiffon dress, 1970s
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 338 - An Yves Saint Laurent 'Lips' dress, 1971
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 339 - A Westwood/McLaren black stretch-lycra top, SEX Original, 1974-5
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 340 - A Westwood/McLaren 'Anarchy in the UK' t-shirt, Seditionaries, circa 1979
Sold for £494
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 341 - A rare Westwood/McLaren towelling jacket, 'Seditionaries' circa 1976
Sold for £2,340
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 342 - A Westwood/McLaren complete blue 'Pirate' ensemble, Autumn-Winter, 1981-82
Sold for £20,800
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 343 - A Westwood/McLaren 'Pirate' ensemble, Autumn-Winter, 1981-82
Sold for £3,900
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 345 - A Westwood/McLaren complete 'Pirate' ensemble, Autumn-Winter, 1981-82
Sold for £3,900
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 346 - A Westwood/McLaren 'Pirate' collection cotton shirt, Autumn-Winter, 1981-82
Sold for £1,235
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 348 - Westwood/McLaren woven cotton trousers, 'Savage' collection, Spring-Summer, 1982
Sold for £364
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 351 - A Westwood/ McLaren 'Nostalgia of Mud' (Buffalo) toga, Autumn-Winter 1982-83
Sold for £1,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 352 - A Westwood/ McLaren 'Nostalgia of Mud' (Buffalo) layered ensemble, Autumn-Winter 1982-83
Sold for £4,160
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 354 - A Westwood/McLaren 'Smiley face' knitted top, 'Witches' collection, Autumn-Winter 1983-84
Sold for £7,150
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 356 - A Westwood/McLaren ensemble, 'Witches' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1983-4
Sold for £7,150
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 357 - A Westwood/McLaren black wool jacket, 'Witches' Autumn-Winter, 1983-84
Sold for £4,160
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 358 - A rare Westwood/McLaren day-glow orange jacket, 'Hypnos' collection, Spring-Summer, 1984
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 360 - A Vivienne Westwood scarlet wool suit, `Harris Tweed' collection Autumn-Winter, 1987/88
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 362 - A Vivienne Westwood tweed suit, 'Time Machine' collection Autumn-Winter 1988/89
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 366 - John Galliano St Martin's student fashion sketches/illustrations, 1983-84
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 369 - Rare John Galliano prototypes for 'Ludic Game' and 'Forgotten Innocents', 1985-87
Sold for £8,450
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 373 - A John Galliano grey viscose crêpe top, 'The Rose' collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 374 - A John Galliano striped navy wool jacket, 'The Rose' collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 375 - A John Galliano striped navy wool coat, 'The Rose' collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88
Sold for £1,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 376 - A John Galliano aubergine gabardine dress, 'The Rose' collection Autumn-Winter 1987-88
Sold for £3,120
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 377 - A John Galliano ensemble, 'The Rose' collection, autumn-winter 1987-88
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 378 - A John Galliano black gabardine ensemble, 'The Rose' collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88
Sold for £2,860
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 379 - A John Galliano grey gabardine dress-coat, 'Hairclips' collection, Autumn-Winter 1988-89
Sold for £16,900
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 384 - A group of John Galliano separates, 'Hairclips' collection, Autumn-Winter 1988-89
Sold for £2,080
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
