The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1) & Passion for Fashion
Auction: June 20th and 21st
I’m honoured to have been entrusted with the sale of friend, collector, dealer, fashion hunter, gatherer - Mr Steven Philip’s legendary archive part 1 (day1). This is the perfect opportunity to acquire museum quality Westwood from Punk Sex-Originals, 1975, swashbuckling Pirates, 1981, and every fabulous design twist and turn of Viv’s through to romantic ball gowns and dangerously vertiginous Super Elevated Platforms of the ‘90s and 2000s. The Galliano chapter is also strong and includes a St Martin’s degree show ‘Incroyable’ waistcoat with matching original student sketch as well as rare and important early Galliano showpieces. For the finale to his section we present Lady Gaga’s ‘Red Bleeding’ rubber fetish look worn in her 911 video.
Day 2 of our fashion extravaganza continues with luxury and designer-wear by Chanel and Hermès before romping through fashion from the 18th century onwards decade by decade. Haute couture highlights include an incredibly rare Kitmir embroidered tunic for Gabrielle Chanel from 1922 (lightening does strike twice), one of her eponymous LBDs from 1924, a Schiaparelli ‘Hall of Mirrors’ jacket from 1938 as well as fabulous Dior, Balmain and Balenciaga evening wear. The Duchess of Windsor’s fashion choices are revealed by fashion sketches from the Houses of Dior, Grès and Saint Laurent complete with her rather blunt handwritten comments. (Lots 201-203).
A highlight of our Westwood offerings on day two is the unique pair of green mock croc Super Elevated Gillies personally autographed by Dame Vivienne herself.
Issey Miyake leads our Avant-Garde and Japanese section with a fine Issey Miyake 'Plastic Body' breastplate, Autumn-Winter 1980-81 as immortalized by Grace Jones.
Hilde Smith’s BodyMap Archive includes first print tests, large fabric samples, original designs, associated press clippings and a few garments. Hilde has provided us with the individual pattern names and also footnotes describing her design process. Her prints were a magical, integral part of the early BodyMap collections which she not only designed (pre computer graphics) but also on occasion modelled as her press clippings reveal.
Simon Costin’s creations for Lee Alexander McQueen are historically important and includes jewellery made for Lee’s degree show as well as one-off showpieces from ‘Dante’ and’ The Birds’. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity for museums and collectors alike to acquire them.
Just to prove that fashion is timeless we end our sale with a fine and rare Imperial summer dragon robe, longpao, Chinese, late 19th century, possibly owned by Empress Dowager Cixi.
We look forward to hearing from you and seeing you in the saleroom.
Day One: The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1), lots 1-147, Tuesday 20th June, begins at 14:00 BST.
Day Two: Various Owners, luxury & designer wear, antique dress, fine haute couture, cutting edge fashion of the 20th-21st century, the Hilde Smith and Simon Costin Archives and an important Imperial robe, Wednesday 21st June, morning session (lots 148 - 365) begins at 10:00 BST. Afernoon session (lots 366 - 557) begins at 14:00 BST.
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Lot 192 - A Valentino sand-coloured flecked wool suit, probably A/W 2000
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 193 - A Louis Vuitton monogrammed leather Papillon bag, 2004
Sold for £286
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 194 - A Cartier brown suede clutch with 9K gold clasp, 1930s
Sold for £195
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 195 - A Christian Dior faux pearl and rhinestone demi-parure, 1980s-90s
Sold for £572
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 196 - A Miriam Haskell faux-pearl and gilt metal demi-parure, 1950s
Sold for £494
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 197 - A magnificent brooch, possibly by Christian Dior, 1950s or 60s
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 198 - A Giorgio Armani statement necklace, 2000s
Sold for £325
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 199 - Two Giorgio Armani statement necklaces, 2000s
Sold for £416
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 208 - A Turnbull & Asser single-breasted blazer, identical to one worn by Princess Diana, 1988
Sold for £8,450
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 209 - A Royal state livery for a musician, for the reign of King George V, 1910-1936
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 210 - A British Royal Household Footman’s livery for the reign of King Edward VII, circa 1902
Sold for £1,950
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 211 - A gentleman's scarlet hunt coat, 1840s-50s
Sold for £2,080
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 212 - A rare woven muslin round gown, circa 1795
Sold for £26,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 213 - A gentleman's quilted linen waistcoat, 1730s
Sold for £1,820
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 214 - An embroidered wallet for Edward Pakenham, Moroccan, 1761
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 215 - A Charles Frederick Worth visite, circa 1885
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 219 - A beaded black muslin flapper dress, circa 1925
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 220 - A beaded black chiffon flapper dress, circa 1925
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 221 - A sequined tulle flapper dress, circa 1925
Sold for £546
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 222 - A beaded black chiffon flapper dress, circa 1924
Sold for £468
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 223 - An ombré sequined and beaded pink chiffon flapper dress, circa 1925
Sold for £546
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 224 - A black beaded muslin flapper dress, circa 1925
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 225 - A finely embroidered ivory silk shawl, Cantonese for the European market, 1920s
Sold for £338
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 226 - A finely embroidered ivory silk crêpe shawl, Cantonese for the European market, 1910s-20s
Sold for £338
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 227 - Two floral lamé shawls, French, circa 1925
Sold for £325
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 228 - Three lamé shawls, French, circa 1925
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 229 - Three floral lamé shawls, French, circa 1925
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 230 - Two floral devoré velvet and lamé shawls, French, circa 1925
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 231 - A floral chiffon and lamé evening stole and muff/purse, French, circa 1925
Sold for £338
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 232 - A Liberty evening shawl, circa 1925
Sold for £1,690
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 233 - A rare and important Chanel couture tunic, embroidered by Kitmir, 1922
Sold for £86,800
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 234 - A Reville Ltd pink lamé gown worn by Lady Ledgard, 1925
Sold for £1,950
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 235 - A Gabrielle Chanel couture 'little black dress', 1924
Sold for £27,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 236 - A Liberty & Co reversible satin opera cape, 1920s
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 237 - Nine issues of Gazette du Bon Ton, 'Art-Modes & Frivolités', 1921
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 241 - A Lucien Lelong deep purple crêpe dress, early 1930s
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 243 - An Elsa Schiaparelli couture black wool-crêpe jacket, circa 1935
Sold for £1,235
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 244 - A Schiaparelli ermine fur jacket, 1930s
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 245 - A Madeleine Vionnet velvet evening gown, circa 1938
Sold for £6,500
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 246 - A Nina Ricci couture pink chiffon evening gown, 1950s
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 247 - A rare Hermès trompe l'oeil ivory wool coat, 1951
Sold for £23,400
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 248 - A Lanvin Castillo couture brown lace ball gown, spring-summer 1957
Sold for £2,210
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 249 - A Madame Grès navy faille cocktail dress, late 1950s
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 250 - A Carven couture lace evening gown, late 1950s-early 1960s
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 251 - Christian Dior couture fashion sketches, 'Trompe l'Oeil line, Spring-Summer 1949
Sold for £2,860
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 252 - Christian Dior couture fashion sketches, 'Trompe l'Oeil line, Spring-Summer 1949
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 253 - Christian Dior couture fashion sketches, 'Trompe l'Oeil line, Spring-Summer 1949
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 254 - A Christian Dior grey velvet headband, circa 1952
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 256 - A Christian Dior couture black satin cocktail dress, Spring-Summer 1956
Sold for £23,400
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 257 - A pair of Roger Vivier for Christian Dior stilettos, 1957
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 258 - A Christian Dior couture navy bouclé wool coat, 1950s
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 259 - A Christian Dior couture oatmeal wool dress, Autumn-Winter 1957
Sold for £1,235
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 260 - A Christian Dior, black ribbed wool coat, 1958-60
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 261 - A Christian Dior by Yves Saint Laurent two-piece ensemble, 1958
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 262 - A Christian Dior by Yves Saint Laurent 'Trapèze'-line dress, Spring-Summer 1958
Sold for £4,160
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 263 - A Christian Dior ottoman satin cocktail dress, 1958
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 264 - A Christian Dior emerald green shantung ziberline cocktail dress, circa 1958
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 267 - Ava Gardner's Pedro Rodriguez evening coat, 1960s
Sold for £19,500
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 268 - A Balenciaga couture fuchsia velvet tent coat, Autumn-Winter, 1956
Sold for £22,100
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 269 - A Balenciaga couture navy tweed suit, 1958
Sold for £572
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 270 - A Balenciaga couture ivory organza gown, circa 1960
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 271 - A Balenciaga couture black leather coat, Spring-Summer, 1962
Sold for £4,940
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 272 - A Balenciaga couture black cloqué silk dinner dress, Autumn-Winter 1962
Sold for £5,980
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 273 - A Balenciaga couture navy bouclé wool suit, circa 1966
Sold for £624
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 274 - A Balenciaga couture beaded black organza evening dress, circa 1967
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 275 - A Balenciaga couture pink matelassé silk evening gown, Spring-Summer, 1967
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 277 - A black acrylic chain-linked dress in the style of Paco Rabanne, probably 1960s
Sold for £442
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 278 - A black acrylic chain-linked dress in the style of Paco Rabanne, probably 1960s
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 279 - A Marc Vaughan abstract mini-dress, 1960s
Sold for £442
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 283 - An Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell floral printed velvet dress, 1969
Sold for £12,350
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 286 - A Courrèges couture double-breasted pink wool suit, Spring-Summer 1965
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 287 - A Courrèges lime-green wool mini dress, circa 1968
Sold for £442
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
