The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1) & Passion for Fashion
Auction: June 20th and 21st
I’m honoured to have been entrusted with the sale of friend, collector, dealer, fashion hunter, gatherer - Mr Steven Philip’s legendary archive part 1 (day1). This is the perfect opportunity to acquire museum quality Westwood from Punk Sex-Originals, 1975, swashbuckling Pirates, 1981, and every fabulous design twist and turn of Viv’s through to romantic ball gowns and dangerously vertiginous Super Elevated Platforms of the ‘90s and 2000s. The Galliano chapter is also strong and includes a St Martin’s degree show ‘Incroyable’ waistcoat with matching original student sketch as well as rare and important early Galliano showpieces. For the finale to his section we present Lady Gaga’s ‘Red Bleeding’ rubber fetish look worn in her 911 video.
Day 2 of our fashion extravaganza continues with luxury and designer-wear by Chanel and Hermès before romping through fashion from the 18th century onwards decade by decade. Haute couture highlights include an incredibly rare Kitmir embroidered tunic for Gabrielle Chanel from 1922 (lightening does strike twice), one of her eponymous LBDs from 1924, a Schiaparelli ‘Hall of Mirrors’ jacket from 1938 as well as fabulous Dior, Balmain and Balenciaga evening wear. The Duchess of Windsor’s fashion choices are revealed by fashion sketches from the Houses of Dior, Grès and Saint Laurent complete with her rather blunt handwritten comments. (Lots 201-203).
A highlight of our Westwood offerings on day two is the unique pair of green mock croc Super Elevated Gillies personally autographed by Dame Vivienne herself.
Issey Miyake leads our Avant-Garde and Japanese section with a fine Issey Miyake 'Plastic Body' breastplate, Autumn-Winter 1980-81 as immortalized by Grace Jones.
Hilde Smith’s BodyMap Archive includes first print tests, large fabric samples, original designs, associated press clippings and a few garments. Hilde has provided us with the individual pattern names and also footnotes describing her design process. Her prints were a magical, integral part of the early BodyMap collections which she not only designed (pre computer graphics) but also on occasion modelled as her press clippings reveal.
Simon Costin’s creations for Lee Alexander McQueen are historically important and includes jewellery made for Lee’s degree show as well as one-off showpieces from ‘Dante’ and’ The Birds’. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity for museums and collectors alike to acquire them.
Just to prove that fashion is timeless we end our sale with a fine and rare Imperial summer dragon robe, longpao, Chinese, late 19th century, possibly owned by Empress Dowager Cixi.
We look forward to hearing from you and seeing you in the saleroom.
Day One: The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1), lots 1-147, Tuesday 20th June, begins at 14:00 BST.
Day Two: Various Owners, luxury & designer wear, antique dress, fine haute couture, cutting edge fashion of the 20th-21st century, the Hilde Smith and Simon Costin Archives and an important Imperial robe, Wednesday 21st June, morning session (lots 148 - 365) begins at 10:00 BST. Afernoon session (lots 366 - 557) begins at 14:00 BST.
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Lot 97 - A John Galliano printed cotton jersey dress, 'The Rose' collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88
Sold for £1,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 98 - A John Galliano olive-green viscose dress, 'The Rose' collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88
Sold for £950
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 99 - A John Galliano boxed press pack, 'The Rose' collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88
Sold for £380
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 101 - A John Galliano bias-cut and pleated dress, Spring-Summer, 1987
Sold for £1,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 102 - A John Galliano black wool 'Barrel' coat, 'The Rose', collection, Autumn-Winter, 1987-88
Sold for £850
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 103 - A John Galliano navy suit ensemble, 'Blanche DuBois' collection, Spring-Summer, 1988
Sold for £2,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 104 - A John Galliano green gabardine jacket, 'Hairclips', collection, Autumn-Winter, 1988-89
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 108 - A complete jumpsuit ensemble, 'Hairclips', Autumn-Winter, 1988-89
Sold for £1,500
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 109 - A John Galliano white bias-cut dress, 'Charles James' collection, Spring-Summer 1989
Sold for £1,700
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 110 - A John Galliano navy wool ensemble, 'Nancy Cunard' collection, Autumn-Winter 1989-90
Sold for £1,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 111 - A John Galliano ivory ensemble, Autumn-Winter, 'Fencing' collection, 1990-91
Sold for £1,700
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 112 - A John Galliano black moiré bomber jacket, 'Fencing' collection, Autumn-Winter 1990-91
Sold for £1,200
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 113 - A John Galliano brick-red wool suit, 'Fencing' collection, Autumn-Winter 1990-91
Sold for £700
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 114 - A group of Galliano's Girl lycra garments, 'Sportswear' collection, 1991
Sold for £300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 115 - A fine John Galliano 'Anatomical' ensemble, 'Honcho Woman', Spring-Summer, 1991
Sold for £6,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 117 - A John Galliano striped jersey shirt, 'Honcho Woman', Spring-Summer 1991
Sold for £600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 121 - A John Galliano black chiffon bias-cut evening gown, circa 2002
Sold for £1,100
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 123 - A Givenchy by John Galliano pinstriped grey wool suit, Autumn-Winter 1996-97
Sold for £500
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 124 - A John Galliano black cloqué-silk suit, 'Dolores' collection, Autumn-Winter 1995-96
Sold for £1,900
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 125 - A rare John Galliano show invitation, 'Baby Maker' collection, Autumn-Winter 1996-97
Sold for £240
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 126 - A rare John Galliano show invitation, 'Ecole de Danse' collection, Spring-Summer 1996
Sold for £750
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 127 - A John Flett cotton jersey 'pouch' dress, circa 1984
Sold for £3,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 128 - A John Flett navy ribbed rayon double-breasted dress, 1980s
Sold for £4,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 129 - An Alexander McQueen dolphin print dress, 'La Poupee' collection, Spring-Summer 1997
Sold for £800
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 130 - An Alexander McQueen black wool coat, 'Joan' collection, Autumn-Winter 1998-99
Sold for £1,400
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 131 - An Alexander McQueen ivory jersey ensemble, 'Irere' collection, Spring-Summer 2003
Sold for £700
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 133 - An Alexander McQueen steel-grey wool dress, 'Voss' collection, Spring/Summer 2001
Sold for £450
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 136 - A rare Yohji Yamamoto black chiffon and houndstooth wool jacket, Autumn-Winter 2003-04
Sold for £3,200
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 137 - An early Yohji Yamamoto men's black gabardine ensemble, Spring-Summer 1988
Sold for £2,800
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 138 - A Yohji Yamamoto military-inspired black wool blend jacket, Autumn-Winter 1988-89
Sold for £400
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 140 - A Comme des Garçons pink 'Hearts' coat, 'Bad Taste' collection, Autumn-Winter 2008-09
Sold for £3,400
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 141 - A Junya Watanabe/Comme des Garçons windowpane check tweed dress, Autumn-Winter 2001-02
Sold for £200
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 142 - A Comme des Garçons padded 'hands' ensemble 'Curiosity' collection, Autumn-Winter 2007-08
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 143 - An Issey Miyake hooded top, Autumn-Winter 1991-92
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 144 - A rare Issey Miyake 'egg carton' hooded dress, Autumn-Winter 2000-01
Sold for £1,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
