The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1) & Passion for Fashion
Auction: June 20th and 21st
I’m honoured to have been entrusted with the sale of friend, collector, dealer, fashion hunter, gatherer - Mr Steven Philip’s legendary archive part 1 (day1). This is the perfect opportunity to acquire museum quality Westwood from Punk Sex-Originals, 1975, swashbuckling Pirates, 1981, and every fabulous design twist and turn of Viv’s through to romantic ball gowns and dangerously vertiginous Super Elevated Platforms of the ‘90s and 2000s. The Galliano chapter is also strong and includes a St Martin’s degree show ‘Incroyable’ waistcoat with matching original student sketch as well as rare and important early Galliano showpieces. For the finale to his section we present Lady Gaga’s ‘Red Bleeding’ rubber fetish look worn in her 911 video.
Day 2 of our fashion extravaganza continues with luxury and designer-wear by Chanel and Hermès before romping through fashion from the 18th century onwards decade by decade. Haute couture highlights include an incredibly rare Kitmir embroidered tunic for Gabrielle Chanel from 1922 (lightening does strike twice), one of her eponymous LBDs from 1924, a Schiaparelli ‘Hall of Mirrors’ jacket from 1938 as well as fabulous Dior, Balmain and Balenciaga evening wear. The Duchess of Windsor’s fashion choices are revealed by fashion sketches from the Houses of Dior, Grès and Saint Laurent complete with her rather blunt handwritten comments. (Lots 201-203).
A highlight of our Westwood offerings on day two is the unique pair of green mock croc Super Elevated Gillies personally autographed by Dame Vivienne herself.
Issey Miyake leads our Avant-Garde and Japanese section with a fine Issey Miyake 'Plastic Body' breastplate, Autumn-Winter 1980-81 as immortalized by Grace Jones.
Hilde Smith’s BodyMap Archive includes first print tests, large fabric samples, original designs, associated press clippings and a few garments. Hilde has provided us with the individual pattern names and also footnotes describing her design process. Her prints were a magical, integral part of the early BodyMap collections which she not only designed (pre computer graphics) but also on occasion modelled as her press clippings reveal.
Simon Costin’s creations for Lee Alexander McQueen are historically important and includes jewellery made for Lee’s degree show as well as one-off showpieces from ‘Dante’ and’ The Birds’. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity for museums and collectors alike to acquire them.
Just to prove that fashion is timeless we end our sale with a fine and rare Imperial summer dragon robe, longpao, Chinese, late 19th century, possibly owned by Empress Dowager Cixi.
We look forward to hearing from you and seeing you in the saleroom.
Day One: The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1), lots 1-147, Tuesday 20th June, begins at 14:00 BST.
Day Two: Various Owners, luxury & designer wear, antique dress, fine haute couture, cutting edge fashion of the 20th-21st century, the Hilde Smith and Simon Costin Archives and an important Imperial robe, Wednesday 21st June, morning session (lots 148 - 365) begins at 10:00 BST. Afernoon session (lots 366 - 557) begins at 14:00 BST.
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Lot 50 - A Vivienne Westwood printed corset ensemble, 'Salon', Spring-Summer, 1992
Sold for £2,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 53 - A Vivienne Westwood lace-print velvet dress, 'Always on Camera' Autumn-Winter, 1992-93
Sold for £380
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 55 - A Vivienne Westwood dog print corset, 'Always on Camera' Autumn-Winter, 1992-93
Sold for £2,200
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 56 - A black velvet and faux fox fur 'Marlene' coat, 'Always on Camera' Autumn-Winter, 1992-93
Sold for £1,400
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 57 - Vivienne Westwood complete rose-print corset ensemble, 'Grand Hotel', Spring-Summer, 1993
Sold for £1,400
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 58 - A Vivienne Westwood black taffeta ball gown, 1993 and early 2000s
Sold for £2,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 59 - A Vivienne Westwood 'Gorilla' jacket, 'Always on Camera' Autumn-Winter, 1992-93
Sold for £550
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 61 - A Vivienne Westwood men's Rubens-print denim ensemble, 'Grand Hotel', Spring-Summer, 1993
Sold for £1,400
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 63 - A Vivienne Westwood cotton corset dress, 'Grand Hotel', Spring-Summer, 1993
Sold for £700
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 66 - A Vivienne Westwood scarlet serge suit, 'On Liberty' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1994-95
Sold for £750
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 68 - A Vivienne Westwood taffeta ballgown, circa 2008
Sold for £3,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 73 - A pair of custom-made black fetish Super Elevated platforms, circa 1993
Sold for £3,500
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 74 - A pair of Vivienne Westwood gold-leather Super Elevated Ghillie platform shoes, 2001
Sold for £2,800
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 77 - A rare dyed muslin shirt, 'Afghanistan Repudiates Western Ideals', Spring-Summer, 1985
Sold for £750
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 80 - A rare John Galliano spencer jacket, 'The Ludic Game', Autumn-Winter, 1985-86
Sold for £28,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 81 - A rare John Galliano knitted tunic 'The Ludic Game' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1985-86
Sold for £1,800
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 82 - John Galliano knitted sweater dress 'The Ludic Game' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1985-86
Sold for £300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 84 - A rare John Galliano knitted breastband 'The Ludic Game' collection, Autumn-Winter, 1985-86
Sold for £700
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 89 - A John Galliano textured sweater, 'Fallen Angels' collection, Spring-Summer 1986
Sold for £440
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 90 - A pair of John Galliano by Trevor Hill brown leather shoes, 1986
Sold for £300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 92 - A John Galliano black gabardine 'pannier' coat, A/W 1986 or S/S 1987
Sold for £4,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 94 - A John Galliano viscose ensemble, Spring-Summer, 1987
Sold for £900
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 95 - A John Galliano original fashion sketch, Spring-Summer, 1987
Sold for £900
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 96 - A John Galliano navy wool coat/dress, 'The Rose' collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88
Sold for £1,500
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
