The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1) & Passion for Fashion
Auction: June 20th and 21st
I’m honoured to have been entrusted with the sale of friend, collector, dealer, fashion hunter, gatherer - Mr Steven Philip’s legendary archive part 1 (day1). This is the perfect opportunity to acquire museum quality Westwood from Punk Sex-Originals, 1975, swashbuckling Pirates, 1981, and every fabulous design twist and turn of Viv’s through to romantic ball gowns and dangerously vertiginous Super Elevated Platforms of the ‘90s and 2000s. The Galliano chapter is also strong and includes a St Martin’s degree show ‘Incroyable’ waistcoat with matching original student sketch as well as rare and important early Galliano showpieces. For the finale to his section we present Lady Gaga’s ‘Red Bleeding’ rubber fetish look worn in her 911 video.
Day 2 of our fashion extravaganza continues with luxury and designer-wear by Chanel and Hermès before romping through fashion from the 18th century onwards decade by decade. Haute couture highlights include an incredibly rare Kitmir embroidered tunic for Gabrielle Chanel from 1922 (lightening does strike twice), one of her eponymous LBDs from 1924, a Schiaparelli ‘Hall of Mirrors’ jacket from 1938 as well as fabulous Dior, Balmain and Balenciaga evening wear. The Duchess of Windsor’s fashion choices are revealed by fashion sketches from the Houses of Dior, Grès and Saint Laurent complete with her rather blunt handwritten comments. (Lots 201-203).
A highlight of our Westwood offerings on day two is the unique pair of green mock croc Super Elevated Gillies personally autographed by Dame Vivienne herself.
Issey Miyake leads our Avant-Garde and Japanese section with a fine Issey Miyake 'Plastic Body' breastplate, Autumn-Winter 1980-81 as immortalized by Grace Jones.
Hilde Smith’s BodyMap Archive includes first print tests, large fabric samples, original designs, associated press clippings and a few garments. Hilde has provided us with the individual pattern names and also footnotes describing her design process. Her prints were a magical, integral part of the early BodyMap collections which she not only designed (pre computer graphics) but also on occasion modelled as her press clippings reveal.
Simon Costin’s creations for Lee Alexander McQueen are historically important and includes jewellery made for Lee’s degree show as well as one-off showpieces from ‘Dante’ and’ The Birds’. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity for museums and collectors alike to acquire them.
Just to prove that fashion is timeless we end our sale with a fine and rare Imperial summer dragon robe, longpao, Chinese, late 19th century, possibly owned by Empress Dowager Cixi.
We look forward to hearing from you and seeing you in the saleroom.
Day One: The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1), lots 1-147, Tuesday 20th June, begins at 14:00 BST.
Day Two: Various Owners, luxury & designer wear, antique dress, fine haute couture, cutting edge fashion of the 20th-21st century, the Hilde Smith and Simon Costin Archives and an important Imperial robe, Wednesday 21st June, morning session (lots 148 - 365) begins at 10:00 BST. Afernoon session (lots 366 - 557) begins at 14:00 BST.
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Lot 97 - A John Galliano printed cotton jersey dress, 'The Rose' collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88
Sold for £2,080
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 98 - A John Galliano olive-green viscose dress, 'The Rose' collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88
Sold for £1,235
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 99 - A John Galliano boxed press pack, 'The Rose' collection, Autumn-Winter 1987-88
Sold for £494
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 101 - A John Galliano bias-cut and pleated dress, Spring-Summer, 1987
Sold for £1,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 102 - A John Galliano black wool 'Barrel' coat, 'The Rose', collection, Autumn-Winter, 1987-88
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 103 - A John Galliano navy suit ensemble, 'Blanche DuBois' collection, Spring-Summer, 1988
Sold for £2,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 104 - A John Galliano green gabardine jacket, 'Hairclips', collection, Autumn-Winter, 1988-89
Sold for £3,380
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 108 - A complete jumpsuit ensemble, 'Hairclips', Autumn-Winter, 1988-89
Sold for £1,950
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 109 - A John Galliano white bias-cut dress, 'Charles James' collection, Spring-Summer 1989
Sold for £2,210
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 110 - A John Galliano navy wool ensemble, 'Nancy Cunard' collection, Autumn-Winter 1989-90
Sold for £1,690
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 111 - A John Galliano ivory ensemble, Autumn-Winter, 'Fencing' collection, 1990-91
Sold for £2,210
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 112 - A John Galliano black moiré bomber jacket, 'Fencing' collection, Autumn-Winter 1990-91
Sold for £1,560
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 113 - A John Galliano brick-red wool suit, 'Fencing' collection, Autumn-Winter 1990-91
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 114 - A group of Galliano's Girl lycra garments, 'Sportswear' collection, 1991
Sold for £390
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 115 - A fine John Galliano 'Anatomical' ensemble, 'Honcho Woman', Spring-Summer, 1991
Sold for £7,800
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 117 - A John Galliano striped jersey shirt, 'Honcho Woman', Spring-Summer 1991
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 121 - A John Galliano black chiffon bias-cut evening gown, circa 2002
Sold for £1,430
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 123 - A Givenchy by John Galliano pinstriped grey wool suit, Autumn-Winter 1996-97
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 124 - A John Galliano black cloqué-silk suit, 'Dolores' collection, Autumn-Winter 1995-96
Sold for £2,470
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 125 - A rare John Galliano show invitation, 'Baby Maker' collection, Autumn-Winter 1996-97
Sold for £312
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 126 - A rare John Galliano show invitation, 'Ecole de Danse' collection, Spring-Summer 1996
Sold for £975
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 127 - A John Flett cotton jersey 'pouch' dress, circa 1984
Sold for £3,900
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 128 - A John Flett navy ribbed rayon double-breasted dress, 1980s
Sold for £5,200
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 129 - An Alexander McQueen dolphin print dress, 'La Poupee' collection, Spring-Summer 1997
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 130 - An Alexander McQueen black wool coat, 'Joan' collection, Autumn-Winter 1998-99
Sold for £1,820
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 131 - An Alexander McQueen ivory jersey ensemble, 'Irere' collection, Spring-Summer 2003
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 133 - An Alexander McQueen steel-grey wool dress, 'Voss' collection, Spring/Summer 2001
Sold for £585
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 136 - A rare Yohji Yamamoto black chiffon and houndstooth wool jacket, Autumn-Winter 2003-04
Sold for £4,160
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 137 - An early Yohji Yamamoto men's black gabardine ensemble, Spring-Summer 1988
Sold for £3,640
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 138 - A Yohji Yamamoto military-inspired black wool blend jacket, Autumn-Winter 1988-89
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 140 - A Comme des Garçons pink 'Hearts' coat, 'Bad Taste' collection, Autumn-Winter 2008-09
Sold for £4,420
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 141 - A Junya Watanabe/Comme des Garçons windowpane check tweed dress, Autumn-Winter 2001-02
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 142 - A Comme des Garçons padded 'hands' ensemble 'Curiosity' collection, Autumn-Winter 2007-08
Sold for £3,380
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 143 - An Issey Miyake hooded top, Autumn-Winter 1991-92
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 144 - A rare Issey Miyake 'egg carton' hooded dress, Autumn-Winter 2000-01
Sold for £1,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 146 - A Junya Watanabe/Comme des Garçons navy wool dress, Spring-Summer 1999
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 147 - A Lady Gaga-worn 'Red Bleeding' look from the '911' music video, 2020
Sold for £5,980
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 148 - A Chanel caviar leather handbag, 1997-1999
Sold for £572
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 149 - A Chanel fantasy tweed double-breasted jacket, Spring-Summer 2012
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 150 - A Chanel printed velvet hat, early 2000s
Sold for £195
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 151 - A Chanel denim and fantasy tweed jacket, probably pre-collection Spring-Summer 2018
Sold for £546
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 152 - A Chanel beach bag, Spring-Summer 2003
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 153 - A Chanel broderie anglaise black chiffon bodice and matching jacket, Spring-Summer 2001
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 154 - A Chanel butterscotch-herringbone tweed jacket, Autumn-Winter 2000
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 155 - A Chanel couture black and white tartan wool suit, mid 1960s
Sold for £494
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 156 - A Chanel 'Eagle' woven leather chain belt, Spring-Summer 2001
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 157 - A Chanel flecked charcoal-grey cashmere suit, Autumn-Winter 1999-2000
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 158 - A Chanel flecked sand-coloured cashmere suit, Autumn-Winter 1999-2000
Sold for £520
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 159 - A Chanel ink-black fine cashmere jacket, Autumn-Winter 1998-99
Sold for £572
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 160 - A Chanel quilted baby-pink and blue cotton-tweed ensemble, Spring-Summer 2000
Sold for £546
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 161 - A Chanel shiny gun-metal-black jacket, Autumn-Winter 2000-2001
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 162 - A Chanel square-quilted burgundy suede flap bag, 2000-2002
Sold for £550
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 164 - A Chanel embroidered-sequin tweed tailcoat, Cruise collection, 2002
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 165 - A Chanel ink-blue tweed suit, Cruise collection, 2002
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 166 - A Chanel pale pink and gold lamé ensemble, Cruise, 2000
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 167 - A Chanel pastel-checked cotton tweed ensemble, Spring-Summer 2001
Sold for £1,300
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 168 - A Chanel pink and rainbow-flecked tweed suit, Autumn-Winter 2001
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 169 - A Chanel quilted black satin evening bag, 2000-2002
Sold for £1,105
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 170 - A Chanel red and gold tweed ensemble, Autumn-Winter 2000-01
Sold for £650
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 171 - A Chanel square-quilted purple lambskin leather flap bag 2000-2002
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 172 - A Chanel cranberry-red tweed coat, Autumn-Winter 2001-02
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 173 - A Chanel pale yellow cotton-tweed ensemble, Cruise collection, 2001
Sold for £1,040
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 174 - A Chanel pink and green tweed jacket and matching hat, Autumn-Winter 2001-02
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 175 - A Chanel sun-beam quilted black satin evening bag, Spring-Summer 2001
Sold for £1,170
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 176 - A Chanel wine-red chenille-tweed ensemble, Autumn-Winter 1998-99
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 177 - A Chanel micro-mini quilted velvet handbag-necklace, circa 1987
Sold for £3,120
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 178 - A Chanel quilted black lambskin leather classic double flap bag, 2000-2002
Sold for £2,470
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 179 - A Chanel buff-coloured bouclé cotton suit, Spring-Summer 1999
Sold for £780
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 180 - A fine Chanel lavender wool tweed ensemble, Autumn-Winter 1998-99
Sold for £5,460
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 182 - A Chanel ivory bouclé tweed suit, circa 1985
Sold for £910
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 183 - A Chanel silver-plated charm necklace, Spring-Summer 2006
Sold for £208
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 184 - A Louis Vuitton by Takashi Murakami Monogram Multicolore bag, early 2000s
Sold for £598
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 185 - A Hermès green crocodile handbag, late 1960s
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 186 - A Hermès orange Swift leather Retournè Kelly 35, 1995
Sold for £4,420
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 187 - A Cartier clutch bag with 9ct Gold frame, probably 1950s
Sold for £325
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 188 - An unusual Hermès leather 'bell' belt, 1993
Sold for £845
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 189 - A Fendi iridescent sequinned Baguette, late 1990s-early 2000s
Sold for £715
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 190 - An Alberta Ferretti bias-cut silk-chiffon evening gown, modern
Sold for £585
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 190A - An Alberta Ferretti beaded black evening ensemble, circa 1998
Sold for £598
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
