The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1) & Passion for Fashion
Auction: June 20th and 21st
I’m honoured to have been entrusted with the sale of friend, collector, dealer, fashion hunter, gatherer - Mr Steven Philip’s legendary archive part 1 (day1). This is the perfect opportunity to acquire museum quality Westwood from Punk Sex-Originals, 1975, swashbuckling Pirates, 1981, and every fabulous design twist and turn of Viv’s through to romantic ball gowns and dangerously vertiginous Super Elevated Platforms of the ‘90s and 2000s. The Galliano chapter is also strong and includes a St Martin’s degree show ‘Incroyable’ waistcoat with matching original student sketch as well as rare and important early Galliano showpieces. For the finale to his section we present Lady Gaga’s ‘Red Bleeding’ rubber fetish look worn in her 911 video.
Day 2 of our fashion extravaganza continues with luxury and designer-wear by Chanel and Hermès before romping through fashion from the 18th century onwards decade by decade. Haute couture highlights include an incredibly rare Kitmir embroidered tunic for Gabrielle Chanel from 1922 (lightening does strike twice), one of her eponymous LBDs from 1924, a Schiaparelli ‘Hall of Mirrors’ jacket from 1938 as well as fabulous Dior, Balmain and Balenciaga evening wear. The Duchess of Windsor’s fashion choices are revealed by fashion sketches from the Houses of Dior, Grès and Saint Laurent complete with her rather blunt handwritten comments. (Lots 201-203).
A highlight of our Westwood offerings on day two is the unique pair of green mock croc Super Elevated Gillies personally autographed by Dame Vivienne herself.
Issey Miyake leads our Avant-Garde and Japanese section with a fine Issey Miyake 'Plastic Body' breastplate, Autumn-Winter 1980-81 as immortalized by Grace Jones.
Hilde Smith’s BodyMap Archive includes first print tests, large fabric samples, original designs, associated press clippings and a few garments. Hilde has provided us with the individual pattern names and also footnotes describing her design process. Her prints were a magical, integral part of the early BodyMap collections which she not only designed (pre computer graphics) but also on occasion modelled as her press clippings reveal.
Simon Costin’s creations for Lee Alexander McQueen are historically important and includes jewellery made for Lee’s degree show as well as one-off showpieces from ‘Dante’ and’ The Birds’. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity for museums and collectors alike to acquire them.
Just to prove that fashion is timeless we end our sale with a fine and rare Imperial summer dragon robe, longpao, Chinese, late 19th century, possibly owned by Empress Dowager Cixi.
We look forward to hearing from you and seeing you in the saleroom.
Day One: The Mr Steven Philip Collection (part 1), lots 1-147, Tuesday 20th June, begins at 14:00 BST.
Day Two: Various Owners, luxury & designer wear, antique dress, fine haute couture, cutting edge fashion of the 20th-21st century, the Hilde Smith and Simon Costin Archives and an important Imperial robe, Wednesday 21st June, morning session (lots 148 - 365) begins at 10:00 BST. Afernoon session (lots 366 - 557) begins at 14:00 BST.
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Lot 483 - A Christian Dior by John Galliano sequined black wool jacket, 2006-07
Sold for £2,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 489 - A Vivienne Westwood black velvet double-breasted coat, 2000s
Sold for £320
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 490 - A Vivienne Westwood 'Care Bear' pale-pink satin corset, 2000
Sold for £4,200
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 492 - A pair of Vivienne Westwood black patent Elevated Gillies, 2004
Sold for £500
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 493 - A Vivienne Westwood pink and gold shot-silk showpiece dress, Spring-Summer 2006
Sold for £4,500
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 497 - An Alexander McQueen 'Orchid' dress, 'Pantheon as Lecum' collection, Autumn-Winter 2004-05
Sold for £1,400
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 500 - A good Alexander McQueen ensemble, 'The Horn of Plenty' collection, Autumn-Winter, 2009-10
Sold for £3,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 501 - An Alexander McQueen satin blouse ''The Horn of Plenty' collection, Autumn-Winter, 2009-10
Sold for £1,600
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 502 - An Alexander McQueen jacquard dress, Pre-Fall 2010
Sold for £500
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 503 - An Alexander McQueen 'Moth' dress, 'Plato's Atlantis', Spring-Summer 2010
Sold for £6,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 504 - Alexander McQueen 'Moth' dress, 'Plato's Atlantis' collection, Spring-Summer, 2010
Sold for £6,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 506 - An Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton embellished wool cocktail dress, Pre-Fall 2011
Sold for £500
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 507 - A Martin Margiela black chiffon scarf, probably 1990s
Sold for £320
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 509 - A Martin Margiela single-breasted black faille coat, late 1990s-early 2000s
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 510 - A group of Martin Margiela separates, 1990s-early 2000s
Sold for £750
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 511 - A rare Martin Margiela brown cotton 'waiter's' apron skirt, circa 1996
Sold for £850
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 512 - A Martin Margiela Trompe-l'œil printed viscose shirt, Spring-Summer 1996
Sold for £1,400
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 513 - A Martin Margiela grey felt-wool 'Flat' coat, Autumn-Winter 1998-99
Sold for £2,400
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 514 - A Martin Margiela black double-lined crêpe dress/coat, probably Spring-Summer 1999
Sold for £360
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 516 - A Martin Margiela black polyamide coat, probably early 2000s
Sold for £320
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 517 - Two Martin Margiela black jackets, probably early 2000s
Sold for £400
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 518 - A Martin Margiela denim wrap dress/coat, Spring-Summer 2002
Sold for £360
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 519 - A Martin Margiela bias-cut black satin-backed-crêpe dress, Autumn-Winter 2001-02
Sold for £440
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 520 - A Martin Margiela leather and navy viscose skirt, Autumn-Winter 2002-03
Sold for £220
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 521 - A Martin Margiela charcoal-grey cashmere jacket, probably Autumn-Winter 2002
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 522 - A Martin Margiela grey wool double-breasted jacket, Autumn-Winter 2003
Sold for £260
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 523 - A Martin Margiela trompe-l'oeil 'Chesterfield' print chiffon dress, Autumn-Winter 2004-05
Sold for £480
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 524 - A Martin Margiela brown velvet coat, Autumn-Winter 2006
Sold for £360
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 525 - A men's Martin Margiela Tyvek jacket, Spring-Summer 2008
Sold for £280
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
Lot 526 - A rare Issey Miyake moulded acrylic 'Plastic Body' breastplate, Autumn-Winter, 1980-81
Sold for £35,000
Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)
