Empire of Fashion: The Barreto Lancaster Collection of Napoleonic & Regency Dress | London

Date: 11th Feb, 2025 14:00
Catalogue: Download PDF catalogue
Lots: 127

 

This is arguably the finest private collection of Napoleonic and Regency period dress in the world. It stands out not only for the range of clothes (1790s to 1820s) but also for the individual beauty of the garments and the remarkably good overall condition.  Cristina Barreto and Martin Lancaster have painstakingly put together this collection over the last two decades, their interest sparked by the discovery of fashion plates from ‘Costume Parisien’ and later the same day finding garments of the same period in a flea market.  

‘Our collection started because we wanted to fully understand the clothes that people wore in the Napoleonic and Regency period. Each dress tells a story about the owner, the activity and the time of day it was used. The collection grew larger as we tried to incorporate items that represented the development of cut and methods of construction during the period from 1795 to 1820’,

This is the first auction dedicated to the clothing of this era, ranging from adapted transitional post French revolutionary dress of the 1790s to the French first empire (1805-1815) and the period in England when Prince George ruled as Regent (1811-1820). The majority of these exceptional garments have been exhibited across Europe and the USA in the past, 

Cristina Barreto and Martin Lancaster, whilst sad to see their collection dispersed, state: ‘Our passion for the clothing and fashions of this fascinating period of history is undiminished, but we hope that the new caretakers of these historic artefacts, be they people with a passion, collectors or institutions, will take care of them and love them as much as we did’.

 

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Clients who prefer to bid via Invaluable still have this option and can access the catalogue here. Please note the charge for bidding online via the Invaluable platform is 3% plus VAT. Clients who prefer to bid via Drouot still have this option and can access the catalogue here. Please note the charge for bidding online via the Invaluable and Drouot platforms are 3% plus VAT. We strongly advise that you register to bid in advance of the auction and not the day of, as we cannot guarantee approval once the auction has begun.
 

Lot 1 - A printed Indian chintz open robe, English, 1795-1796

Sold for £39,000

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 2 - A striped silk caraco, French, circa 1795

Sold for £715

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 3 - A striped silk Hussar-style jacket, French, circa 1795

Sold for £780

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 4 - A white linen and lace gown with long train American, circa 1798-1800

Sold for £3,640

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 5 - Two pairs of slippers, 1790-1800

Sold for £312

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 6 - A printed cotton round gown, French, circa 1797

Sold for £22,100

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 7 - Three fichus/shawls, late 18th-early 19th-century

Sold for £286

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 8 - An Indian muslin robe en chemise, French, circa 1798

Sold for £11,700

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 9 - A blue and ivory silk net purse with printed motifs, English, 1790-1810

Sold for £1,950

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 11 - A gilt mesh purse, probably French, circa 1800

Sold for £6,500

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 12 - A pair of blue kid leather slippers, 1790-1800

Sold for £494

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 13 - A rare embroidered linon 'Merveilleuse' gown, French, 1796-1800

Sold for £297,600

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 14 - A gentleman's blue and green voided velvet tailcoat, French, circa 1800

Sold for £5,200

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 15 - A gentleman's embroidered ivory silk waistcoat, 1790s

Sold for £442

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 16 - A navy blue wool gentleman's court suit, circa 1805-10

Sold for £2,210

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 18 - A gentleman's linen shirt, 1799-1815

Sold for £2,080

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 19 - A pair of gentleman's doeskin riding breeches, 19th century

Sold for £1,300

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 20 - A rare wool under-waistcoat, circa 1805

Sold for £1,235

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 21 - A gentleman's whitework embroidered cotton waistcoat, 1803-04

Sold for £520

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 22 - A gentleman's whitework embroidered waistcoat, circa 1805

Sold for £468

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 23 - A mauve shot-silk transition gown, French, circa 1800

Sold for £2,210

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 24 - An ivory silk work bag, English or French, 1815-25

Sold for £3,120

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 25 - A Provençal printed cotton day dress, French, circa 1800

Sold for £1,430

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 26 - A pair of girl's white linen short stays, probably French, circa 1805

Sold for £1,040

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 28 - A group of baby clothing and accessories, 1800s-30s

Sold for £1,430

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 29 - A clouded satin-striped poplin over dress and a muslin gown, circa 1805

Sold for £1,560

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 30 - A printed cotton day dress, English, circa 1805

Sold for £3,640

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 31 - A whitework embroidered muslin gown with long train, French, circa 1800

Sold for £3,380

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 32 - An embroidered white linon dress, French, 1800-1803

Sold for £1,430

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 35 - A group of reticules and purses, early 19th century

Sold for £1,950

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 37 - A fine white muslin gown with long train, French, circa 1803

Sold for £6,500

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 38 - A woven kashmir stole, early 19th century

Sold for £975

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 39 - A fine Indian muslin evening dress with long train, English, 1804-05

Sold for £2,600

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 40 - A green/mauve shot sarsanet dress, French, circa 1805

Sold for £2,600

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 43 - A fine Indian muslin bridal gown with long train, English, 1805

Sold for £4,420

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 44 - A rare white bugle beaded batiste evening gown, English, circa 1805

Sold for £52,000

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 45 - An embroidered satin work bag, 1790-1810

Sold for £1,690

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 46 - A whitework embroidered muslin dress and stole, French, circa 1806

Sold for £9,100

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 47 - A printed cotton day dress, English, circa 1806

Sold for £9,750

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)

Lot 48 - A whitework embroidered muslin dress, French, circa 1806

Sold for £1,300

Buyer's premium: 25% (exclusive of VAT)